Honfleur
Journey Back in Time
Sitting on the north coast of France, Honfleur is truly a journey back in time. For over 1,000 years it played a key role in Normandy’s history, and today it still has a beautiful harbour, wonderful half-timbered buildings, and many shops & restaurants to enjoy.
Honfleur
The Siene river flows through Paris, emptying into the English Channel by Honfleur, making this an ideal port for more than a thousand years.
In the 8th century, Vikings settled in the region, and travelled down the Siene, raiding villages and monasteries including Paris - until the King of France granted them what would become Normandy, in exchange for ceasing their raids and providing support to the King.
William the Conqueror had supplies shipped from here to aid his conquest of England in 1066.
Honfleur then bounced between English and French control a few times until the French reclaimed it for good in 1449 during the 100 years war.
And for the next 300 years it prospered from trade with North America and Asia, until Le Harvie across the bay became the regions primary port.
Samuel de Champlain set sail from here in 1608 to discover Quebec.
In the 19th century Honfleur became a home for Impressionist art, as painter Eugine Boudin lived and painted here. Some historians consider this the birthplace of Impressionist art.
Honfleur fortunately escaped the bombs of WWII.
Self-Guided Walk
The route is primarily a loop, walking through Honfleur’s old town wrapped around its harbor which show its core sights.
We start by soaking in the picturesque harbor, then checkout an old medieval Bell Tower and the Church of Saint-Catherine.
We wander down beautiful cobblestone lanes with assorted shops & restaurants, and check out the last remaining harbour gatehouse with a monument to Samuel de Champlain.
On the way back we find Honfleur’s oldest building, then stroll down a secluded prison street with even more amazing wood-timbered buildings. Continuing down Prison Street goes under a covered access to Rue de la Ville.
The loop is also wonderful after dark, with harbour-front restaurants packed with out-door tables.
Self-guided walk to see key sights in Honfleur’s old town
Zoom-in on Rue de la Prison area
Port of Honfleur
Todays Port of Honfleur offers a romantic harbor enclosed on 3 sides by sprawling outdoor cafes, and tiny streets with architecture dating back to the 14-th century – many with the half-timbered style.
If you stand here catching an early morning sun, admiring colorful reflections of jagged buildings on the water is truly memorable.
Port of Honfleur
Church of Saint-Catherine
Our walk makes its way to a backstreet, Rue du Dauphin, passing by numerous colorful shops, a gallery, cafes and restaurants.
Continuing its bend to the right (going north), we eventually find Église Sainte-Catherine. It is the largest wooden church in France - and one of its oldest, built in 1468 after the end of the 100 years’ war.
Built by ship builders of the day, the ceiling is like the upside-down hulls of 2 wooden ships.
Church of Saint-Catherine - largest wooden church in France
Bell Tower
Opposite the church, nothing looks more medieval than this old wooden bell tower.
Its 5 bronze bells were too heavy for the wooden church, so a separate tower was built made of sturdy oak construction, erected above a stone and wood-timbered house where the bell-ringer lived.
It is now a museum, and can be entered for a fee. Although small, I enjoyed it’s old atmosphere, admiring its old heavy posts & beams, and artifacts from the church. (see it in my video!)
It was also the subject of one of Monet’s paintings.
Bell Tower across from Church of Saint-Catherine
Inside the Bell Tower
Eugene Boudin Museum
Admiring another string of restaurants on the north side of the church, our walk enters a small cobbled street going north on Rue des Lingots.
At a “T” intersection of Rue de I’Homme de Bois, heading further northwest and around a corner is a museum dedicated to Eugine Boudin. It also has works of other famous painters.
Some art historians consider Honfleur as the birth place of Impressionist art. Eugine Boudin who grew up and painted here.
Bodin was 30 when he met an impressionable 18-year-old Claude Monet who lived across the bay at Le Harvie. Both liked to paint outdoors, which was uncommon to the times.
Boudin persuaded Monet to become a landscape painter, encouraging a love of bright hues and the play of light on water.
Boudin hosted painting sessions inviting Monet and other early impressionist painters, and they also taught Boudin their technique of building a subject with multiple brush-strokes of colors.
In 1873 Boudin joined them at the revolutionary first Impressionist exhibition in Paris.
Monet and Boudin remained lifelong friends, and Monet later paid tribute to Boudin’s early influence in his work.
La Lieutenance Building
Continuing our loop along cobble-stone Rue de I’Homme de Bois toward the harbor, we pass more colorful shops and restaurants (no shortage in Honfleur!). It is very picturesque.
Eventually, we now come out at the entry to the harbor, alongside a large old stone building called La Lieutenance.
During the 100 Years War, the harbor was fortified by a big wall with twin gate-houses.
This building is one of the gatehouses and all that remains of the town's fortification. In the 17th century it was the residence of the King’s Lieutenant.
On the northern wall of the Lieutenance building is a monument to Samuel de Champlain.
Jacques Cartier founded Canada in 1534. But it was 74 later, in 1608 that Samuel de Champlain set sail out of this harbor with 3 ships and a local crew to establish Quebec.
La Lieutenance building with monument to Samuel de Champlain
Musée de la Marine
Walking down the other side of the harbor (east side), is Musée de la Marine - the town's Maritime Museum.
This is Honfleur’s oldest building dating back to about 1369 built as church Saint Etienne des Près. Notice the design of its tower was also used for Saint Catherine’s Bell Tower.
The Maritime Museum houses collections of models, paintings, objects and history of life on the sea from the 18th to the 20th century.
Honfleur’s oldest building, originally a church, now a Maritime Museum
Looking down Prison Street next to the Maritime Museum
Rue de la Prison
We now make a turn onto a cobbled backstreet named Rue de la Prison.
On our quick visit to Honfleur, we stumble across this most memorable street. I was in awe at these old wooden buildings. All we could say was “wow”. Fortunately, there is a little wooden bench to sit on – Lol.
In two adjacent 16th-century buildings: one was a prison, the other a manor house – they’re now the Museum of Ethnography and Popular Art. Inside are nine theme rooms furnished in period finishes and objects from the 16th to the 20th century.
Honfleur is a memorable destination. I would recommend at least two nights to also take in some of its museums and galleries. You may even want more time to truly relax and explore this charming destination.
16th-century buildings: one was a prison, the other a manor house – they’re now the Museum of Ethnography and Popular Art
Night Scene
It has a lively after-dark scene with many restaurants ringing the waterfront.
Port of Honfleur after dark
Restaurants along Port of Honfleur after dark
Watch the Video
Watch Jim’s video tour of Honfleur (click the image below),
and subscribe to Haswell Travelled YouTube channel - much appreciated!
How to Get Here
Car: On your own, it is easiest to reach Honfleur by car. From Le Harvie it is a 30 min drive across the bay; from Caen 50 mins; Rouen 1 hour; Paris 2 hours 15 min.
Transit: There is no train connection to Honfleur. You can find Bus links to Honfleur from Le Havre (30 mins) and Caen (1 hour). Bus from Paris (3+ hours) stops at Le Havre.
Tour: You may be able to reach Honfleur on a full-day bus tour, usually from Paris. Tours are usually the most expensive option but can be very convenient.
Cruise: Honfleur is a port stop on some cruises:
Ocean Cruises dock at a terminal on the Seine (23 min walk or 6 min by shuttle).
River Cruises on the Seine, often from Paris, dock at the sheltered inlet (La Morelle) next to the Honfleur Harbor by the old town.
Reference
Honfleur, Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honfleur
Eugène Boudin, Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Boudin
Exploring Farther Away
In the charming village of Giverny resides Claude Monet’s beautiful home, gardens and famous water lily pond - truly a masterpiece of natural beauty and a legacy to his creativity. We also share some history of Monet to better appreciate his fabulous creations.
The beautiful coastal village of Etretat with its spectacular sea-side cliffs was a favorite subject of impressionist painters. Enjoy its gardens, panoramic views, and stroll the streets of this delightful town. (No Haswell Travelled page on Etretat yet)
Once the original capital of Viking-controlled Normandy, and Joan of Arc’s last stand, Rouen has a rich history, with museums and a fabulous medieval old town to explore. (No Haswell Travelled page on Rouen yet)
Bayeux is a historic gem, awaiting your exploration. It’s 950-year-old tapestry, depicting historic events, is a treasure like no other. Explore its large gothic cathedral & crypt, wonderful museum with lace displays, charming streets, Normandy invasion museum, and visit D-Day beaches to the north.