Bayeux

& Medieval Tapestry

Bayeux is a historic gem, awaiting your exploration…

A 950-year-old medieval tapestry, with hand stitched images spanning 230 feet, depict the historical events leading up to the Norman conquest of England. What does it look like and what does it say?

One of the largest lace producing centers in Europe was here, and the Baron Gerard Museum has an impressive display.

It’s gothic cathedral, just as large as the one in Paris, has a Romanesque crypt rediscovered in the 15th century.

Bayeux is also perfect base to explore D-Day sights along the coast of Normandy, and has its own Memorial Museum.

Water wheel behind Tourist Office on Rue Saint-Jean in Bayeux, France

Bayeux History

Just 5 kilometers from the north coast of France, Bayeux had a turbulent history:

  • It was founded in the 1st century as a Roman settlement after the region of Gual was conquered by Julius Ceasar.

  • Vikings largely destroyed Bayeux during it’s capture in 880, and it was rebuilt a century later becoming a Norman stronghold.

  • Around 1070, William the Conqueror’s invasion of England was documented on a medieval tapestry and hung in the Cathedral.

  • During the Hundred Years War, Bayeux was besieged and changed hands several times between the English and French.

  • Protestants and Catholics then fought over it during the Wars of Religion in the 16th century.

  • During WWII, Bayeux was fortunate to avoid most of the destruction following D-Day that other towns in Normandy suffered.

  • Being just south of the British Gold beach, Bayeux was the first city liberated after the landings, and a week later, General Charles de Gaulle came to deliver a stirring speech here.

General Charles de Gaulle walking through the streets of Bayeux, France, 14 June 1944

Main Sights in Bayeux

Main Sights in Bayeux, France

Water Wheel and River Walk

On the north side of the Tourist Office on Rue Saint-Jean may be Bayeux’s most photographed location. The charming water wheel is beautiful during the day and lit up at night.

A relaxing stroll along the Aure River, more like a small canal, runs north-south through town and makes its way along stone houses and brings you close to the Tapestry Museum.

There is a second water wheel just south of the Tapestry Museum, alongside the “le moulin de la galette” on Rue de Nesmond where the river walkway begins again.

Water wheel at night - behind Tourist Office on Rue Saint-Jean in Bayeux, France

Tapestry Museum

Probably Bayeux’s most popular tourist sight is its Tapestry Museum (Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux).

The tapestry is believed to have been made in Canterbury England around the 1070 shortly after William the Conqueror took the throne of England.

It is 20 inches tall, and a whopping 230 feet long, making it the longest tapestry in the world. Imagine, it is now just over 950 years old, and well preserved.

During the Middle Ages, it was on display at the Bayeux Cathedral.

It is embroidered with 75 scenes depicting the story of Harold and William, and the events leading up to the Norman conquest of England.

The audio guide tells the story in detail as you walk along each scene of the tapestry.

Bayeux Tapestry in the museum

Supercarwaar, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Medieval Tapestry Story

Here is a condensed version of the story…

Setting the stage, in 1065, King Edward the Confessor of England was about to die without an heir. Who was to succeed him? There was Harold - his brother-in-law and English nobleman, and also his cousin William - the duke of Normandy.

  • Edward chose William, and sent Harold to Normandy to give William the news. (scene 1)

  • Harold sails to Normandy (scene 6), and William invites Harold to join him on a campaign against the Duke of Brittany.

  • On their way, they reached Mont Saint-Michel (scene 16) - a place we also visit on this trip.

  • While they're there, some of the army gets stuck in the quicksand and Harold saves two Norman soldiers. (scene 17)

  • They chased Duke of Brittany (scene 18a) up until the castle of Dinan and their men fought bravely (scene 19). Duke surrendered, gave town keys to William. (scene 20)

  • They traveled to Bayeux where Harold took an oath in support of William, swearing on holy relics in the Cathedral. (scene 23)

  • Harold returns home and appears to get into an argument with old king Edward (scene 25).

  • Edward becomes very ill and some people think that he passes the crown to Harold just before this time (scene 27-28). Edward is crowned king at Westminster Abbey.(scene 31).

  • In the sky, a bright star appeared with a streaming tail - which actually was Halley's Comet.  This was a considered a bad omen in the middle ages. (scene 32)

  • The news of Harold's coronation reaches William, and he orders a fleet of ships to be built. (scene 35)

  • William and his army sail and land in England unopposed. (scene 39)

  • Soon Harold’s army arrives and they engage in the historic Battle of Hastings on 14 October 1066 (scene 56).

  • Harold’s two brothers are killed, then King Harold is killed. (scene 57)

  • The last scene shows remaining unarmed English troops fleeing the battlefield (scene 58)

We know the rest of the story as William continues his march to London and becomes King of England.

Bayeux Tapestry Scene 01 - Edward chose William, and sent Harold to Normandy to give William the news.

Bayeux Tapestry Scene 57 - Harold’s death

Normandy Ruled by Vikings

The museum has a replica of a traditional Viking boat.

I didn’t realize the degree to which Normandy was of Viking descent.

155 years prior to the Battle of Hastings, Vikings had settled in the area. In 911 their leader Rollo was powerful enough to force the French king to grant them the territory from Rouen to the north coast in exchange for ceasing their raids.

The region took the name of Normandy, as they were the country of Norsemen, and Rollo became its first ruler.

The King of France also allowed the Normans to extend their territory further west including Bayeux and as far as Mont St Michelle, thereby consolidating areas with other Viking settlements, and helping keep their western neighbor the Duke of Brittany in check.

And Rolo was William the Conqueror’s great-great-great-grandfather - making William a descendant of Vikings.

King William I ('The Conqueror')

National Portrait Gallery, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Rollo, first Duke of Normandy, Monument at Falaise, France

Rollon Falaise (Calvados), by Pradigue, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Bayeux Cathedral

Beyaux’s large Notre-Dame Cathedral is just as large as the one in Paris.

It was here that Harold took an oath over relics in the presence of William, which many believe was for loyalty to William as heir to the English throne - the breaking of the oath led to the Norman conquest of England.

The cathedral was consecrated in 1077 by Bishop Odo, who was also William the Conqueror's brother. It is believed that Bishop Odo commissioned the Bayeux Tapestry. Odo was a warrior and statesman who fought at the Battle of Hastings alongside William – not your ordinary bishop.

The Tapestry was hung annually in the Cathedral during the week of the Feast of St. John the Baptist. This was still the case in 1728, otherwise it was stored in a chest.

The original Cathedral had serious damage in the 12th Century, and was then rebuilt in the present Gothic style.

Its western facade towers and crypt still date back to the Romanesque period.

A rare 13-century stained glass window still resides high above the central alter. Other stained-glass windows are from 19 & 20 centuries.

Notre-Dame Cathedral, Bayeux, France

Romanesque Crypt

The crypt below dates back to the 11th century. It was used to house the cathedrals relics, and still has Romanesque carvings and paintings.

It was walled up for centuries and forgotten, then rediscovered in 1412 during work to hollow out a grave for a Bishop.

Romanesque Crypt in the Bayeux Cathedral

Baron Gerard Museum

Next to the Bayeux cathedral is the former palace of the bishop from the 11th to 16th centuries, and former town hall.

It is now the Baron Gerard Museum with a wide collection of art and history on display, including:

  • Archeological and medieval artifacts

  • Paintings from the 17th to 20th centuries

  • Bishop’s treasury in the Palace Chapal

  • A 19th century courtroom

  • A large collection of Bayeux porcelain

  • Bayeux lace from the bishops’ apartments

The highlight for us was the lace display at the Baron Gerard Museum. The room is not large, but we stared at the works of lace for a long time, unable to comprehend how they were actually made by hand. The fine, intricate detail is amazing, actually unbelievable.

Bobbin lace was introduced in Bayeux by nuns at the end of the 17th Century. It became the city’s main craft around 1780 and reached its peak around 1830, employing about 15,000 women in the area - becoming one of the largest lace-making centers in Europe.

There were 3 main categories of lace: “Bayeux” made of white linen, “Chantilly” made of black silk, and “Blonde” made of unbleached silk.

Mechanical production eventually put an end to the hand-made lace industry.

Lace displays at the Baron Gerard Museum, Bayeux, France.

Bayeux's Best Street

Rue Saint-Jean, the road in front of the Tourist Office, makes an enjoyable stroll with an assortment of shops, restaurants & cafes. A small market is held here on Wednesdays.

Continuing north-west, it turns into Rue Saint-Martin and you’ll find Bayeux’s most photographed wood-timbered building called “Maison à Pans de Bois de la rue des Cuisiniers”, now a landmark on the corner of Rue des Cuisiniers.

Continuing further Northwest, the same road turns into Rue Saint-Malo with even more shops and boutiques to explore.

Bayeux’s most photographed wood-timbered building called “Maison à Pans de Bois de la rue des Cuisiniers”

Small market along Rue Saint-Jean (held on Wednesdays).

Museum of the Battle of Normandy

A 10-minute walk south-west from the cathedral is the Museum of the Battle of Normandy. Starting with an overview of D-Day, military events are then chronicled with displays of vehicles, artillery and other equipment.

Museum of the Battle of Normandy in Bayeux

Paul Arps, CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0>, via Flickr

Bayeux War Cemetery & Memorial

Across the road from the Museum, is the Bayeux War Cemetery. It is the largest WWII Commonwealth cemetery in France with 4,648 graves. The vast majority are UK (3,935), along with Canada (181), Poland (25), Australia (17), and also include some from Nazi Germany (466), with small numbers from other countries.

The Bayeux Memorial stands across from the cemetery, recognizing an additional 1,800 Commonwealth soldiers who died in the early stages of the battle with no grave – many lost in the English Channel off the coast of Normandy.

Bayeux War Cemetery & Memorial

9803-Bayeux War Cemetery, Pinpin, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Watch the Video

Watch Jim’s video tour of Bayeux (click the image below),

and subscribe to Haswell Travelled YouTube channel - much appreciated!

How to Get Here

Car: From Caen it is a 28 min drive; from Caen 50 mins; Honfleur 1 hour 11 min; Rouen 1 hour 49 min; Paris 3 hours 7 min.

Transit: Train connection from Caen direct (21 min); Paris direct (2 hours 43 min), Paris via Caen (3 hours 6 min); Rouen via Caen (2 hours 21 min).

Where we Stayed: Driving into Bayeux, we chose to stay at the Hôtel Le Lion d'Or for it’s onsite parking, and easy walk to the key sights. Checkout the photographs in the lounge of famous people who stayed here including Eisenhower and Hollywood stars filming the Longest Day and other movies.

Need a Laundromat? We conveniently found one around the corner from the Tourist Office called Lavomatique (10 Rue Maréchal Foch, 14400 Bayeux, France). Also shown on map under “Main Sights in Bayeux”

 

Reference

Bayeux section in: Rick Steves France 2016, by Rick Steves and Steve Smith, Avalon Travel Publishing

Bayeux, Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayeux

Britain’s Bayeux Tapestry, Reading Museum: https://readingmuseum.org.uk/collections/britains-bayeux-tapestry

Exploring Farther Away

Sitting on the north coast of France, Honfleur is truly a journey back in time. For over 1,000 years it played a key role in Normandy’s history, and today has a beautiful harbor, wonderful half-timbered buildings, and many shops & restaurants to enjoy.

Mont St Michel is an unforgettable sight - rising out of the bay with its stunning Abbey reaching to the heavens.  It’s the ultimate medieval hill-town with ramparts, a cobble-stone main street, a charming stone village, a most memorable gothic abbey complex, and a rich history.

Along the coast of Normandy in June 1944, was the largest naval operation in history. Bayeux makes a good launchpad to explore D-Day sights on your own by car, or by organized tour. Tours can also be taken from Caen. (No Haswell Travelled page on D-Day Sights yet)

The medieval walled town of Dinan is a memorable sight with possibly the best-preserved half-timbered buildings on beautiful cobblestone streets you can find. And with a great panoramic view of its river-port, Dinan is a feast for the eyes.