Mont Saint-Michel
An unforgettable sight - rising out of the bay and reaching to the heavens...
Mont St Michel is the ultimate medieval hill-town with ramparts, a cobble-stone main street, a charming stone village, with lots & lots of stairs.
We were awestruck with the Abbeys massive size, and loved meandering through its dimly-lit lower crypts with grand pillars, stairways and locked doors.
The entire island is frozen in time, well preserved, never conquered, and has quite a history to tell.
Mont Saint-Michel, France
Ultimate Island Hill Town
On first glance Mont Saint-Michel is an amazing sight with ramparts and towers along its base protecting a multi-level medieval village sandwiched between the walls and the dominating Abbey cresting the hill.
It is a small island about 1 kilometer off the coast of France, in the north-east corner of Normandy. Depending on when you see it, it is either surrounded by water when the tide is in, or it is surrounded by a mud-plain when the tide is out.
Parking is on the mainland, and all visitors arrive by shuttle from the mainland crossing a bridge built in 2014. It replaced a 135-year-old causeway, which was basically a raised road causing silt to gradually grow and build up in the bay. The new bridge allows water to flow underneath it and reduce the silt build-up.
The population of Mont Saint-Michel is only about 50 residents. But it receives more than 3 million tourists each year. That is a lot for a tiny island town.
During the day Le Grand Rue, it’s narrow main street, is packed with tourists. The island is best enjoyed in the morning and late afternoon the evening. After sundown, the village is magical, lit with very few people about - its narrow lanes and stairways almost deserted. We stayed overnight on the island and loved it.
Village of Mont Saint-Michel, France. Notice stairs to the ramparts on the left.
History of Mont Saint-Michel
Ramparts of Mont Saint-Michel, France
Mont St Michel with its grand 1,000-year-old Abbey is one of Europe’s most iconic structures.
Throughout its existence, it has been a magnet for the masses: from worship to war, it has received pilgrimages and invasions, serving as a church and a prison, with its fortifications ensuring its survival.
Origin of the Abbey
Archangel Michael appearing to bishop Saint Aubert of Avranches in 708, instructing him to build a church on the mount. On display in the abbey.
In 847, Vikings captured the mount, and eventually a good portion of northern France. After the King of France granted them the northern region in 876, the first Dukes of Normandy granted financial support to restore and expand Mont Saint Michel.
In 966 the abbey was founded with Benedict monks settling here, and it continued to grow as a popular pilgrimage site. Imagine medieval pilgrims walking over the mudflats with risk of tides being trapped in the silt. Even Kings of France and England would visit here, and many manuscripts were written and kept in the abbey.
In the Bible, Archangel Michel is the leader of the heavenly angles, and symbolizes the triumph of good against evil by his slaying the dragon.
According to legend, St. Michael appeared to Bishop Saint Aubert of Avranches and instructed him to build a chapel on the mount in 708. The first chapel dedicated to St. Michael was built on the summit of the mount.
In 1060, an Italian architect was hired to design and build a large new abbey. The church we see today was built on the peak of the mount, supported with 4 large crypts and chapels under its wings. The original small Romanesque church of Notre-Dame-Sous-Terre with its sanctuary dedicated to Archangel Michel, is currently under the nave of the abbey. Note: Only on a lecture tour can you see this oldest part of the church.
In 1204 the Duke of Brittany, at the request of the King of France, attacked Mont Saint-Michel, killing the villagers and setting the town on fire, but could not conquer the fortified abbey.
In 1228, the large gothic “Merveille” was completed on the north side of the abbey. An architectural feat for the time, it’s three levels are 35 meters high with many rooms including a cellar, dining hall, “knights” room, cloisters and refectory.
Construction of a Masterpiece
Construction of Mont Saint-Michel Abbey from 10th to 13th centuries, France
Fortress and Prison
In the 14th century, more fortifications were added to the abbey, along with ramparts and towers to defend the village.
During the Hundred Years War (1337 – 1453), the English tried twice to conquer the island, once in 1423-24 and again in 1433-34. Although the English managed to occupy the whole region, they could not conquer Mont Saint-Michel. France eventually won the war and pushed the English back over the channel.
In celebration of their victory, King Louis XI created the Order of Saint Michael in 1469. This knights order was filled with the most powerful nobles in the entire Kingdom. They were given a golden shell collar with a medal made to represent Archangel Michael as victor over the dragon.
In the 16th century, during the Wars of Religion (1562–98), protestants tried several times to conquer Mont St Michael, but failed.
Bayeux Tapestry Scene 17 depicting William and Harold’s trip of 1065, with Harold rescuing 2 Norman soldiers trapped in the mud
Eventually the buildings deteriorated, and Monks and Abbots deserted it.
During the French Revolution, the abbey was closed in 1791 and converted into a prison - it once held up to 300 priests who opposed the new republican authority as well as political prisoners.
In 1863 the prison was closed, transferring its 650 prisoners, and the mount was declared a historical monument in 1874.
Treasure of Mont Saint-Michel
While exploring this fabulous island hill town, imagine everyone in medieval dress, and slowly admire your surroundings. Not much has changed in 500 of years. This is the treasure of Mont Saint-Michel: it will transport you back in time if you allow it.
Its gems are: its ramparts, charming village, and its absolute must-see abbey.
It takes a leisurely pace to truly appreciate it all, and best to explore it in the morning and evening. It is easy to overlook its detail during the middle of the day with a focus on weaving through heavy crowds.
Exploring Mont St Michel can be very exhausting with all its uphill walkways and stairs. Have water and take it slow.
The information center is a good start to confirm shuttle hours, get a map of the island, and consider an abbey lecture tour if not already booked. The information center on the island is close to the gate entry. If arriving by car, there is an information center by the mainland parking lot shuttle stop which is much less busy.
Walking the Mudflats
The water level around Mont Saint-Michel can vary as much as 46 feet, dependent on the time of year. The highest tide occurs in the day or two following a new moon and a full moon, and peaks during the spring and autumn equinox.
During the Middle Ages, pilgrims crossed the mudflats on foot, with the risk of quicksand and fast rising tides. The Bayeux Tapestry depicts William (the Conqueror) and Harold’s trip of 1065, with Harold rescuing 2 Norman soldiers trapped in the mud.
Today it is common for people to walk around the outside of the walls at low tide. It is recommended to be aware of the tide schedule, not venture too far from the walls, and consider having a guide.
Tourists on the mud flats around Mont Saint-Michel at low tide.
Walking the Ramparts
Access to the village first requires passing through a large gate, then be sure to admire the wonderful draw-bridge before crossing over it. Once inside, stairs on the right lead up to the top of the ramparts where we can walk the outer wall.
These fabulous ramparts were built after the Duke of Brittany attacked the village, killing its inhabitants and setting it on fire in 1204. And they were in place during sieges by the English in 1423 & 1433 during the Hundred Years War, and then attacked by protestants in the late 1500’s. Imagine the commotion with armies below on the mudflats, while inhabitants wished for a miracle the tide would roll in sooner.
The ramparts are also a convenient way to avoid busy main street if you want to reach the upper village areas or abbey. After walking up the stairs, either direction will get you there – and enjoy the panoramic views along the way.
Restaurants are accessible from the ramparts, even with outdoor sitting areas where you can take a break, enjoy a refreshment, snack or meal.
Walking the Ramparts on Mont Saint-Michel. Notice its main street below on the left.
Pathways branch off ramparts at Mont Saint-Michel
Exploring the Village
Mont Saint-Michel has a charming village with wood & stone buildings, almost randomly attached, and numerous narrow cobble-stone lanes with lots of steps. Its many restaurants are enjoyable with atmosphere and location a big part of the experience. Its small shops are touristy, and its small museums can help appreciate its history – but consider these optional if you have time to spare.
Near the end of main street and up a pathway, is a small chapel. Église St-Pierre dates back to the 15th century and is dedicated to the patron saint of fishermen. Out front is a statue of Joan of Arc. The resolute resistance of an unbeatable Mont St Michel during The Hundred Years War inspired her to take up cause against the English. The side chapel has a statue of Saint Michael slaying the dragon.
Joan of Arc at entry to Église St-Pierre church, Mont Saint-Michel, France
Saint Michael in Église St-Pierre church, Mont Saint-Michel, France
Cemetery behind Église St-Pierre church tower, Mont Saint-Michel
The path continues alongside a raised cemetery to a small vantage point to admire the variable roof-lines of the buildings. Continuing west on a series of very narrow paths will eventually reach the ramparts. Continuing east up more stairs are smaller buildings (one was our hotel room – see below for more information) and eventually reach the base of the abbey. From here, continuing east will take you down toward ramparts.
Explore where ever a pathway or stairs allow - you can’t get too far lost. Then walk your favorite route after sundown – but don’t miss the last shuttle out if you are not staying on the island.
Pathway with small vantage point to admire the variable roof-lines of the buildings
Visiting the Abbey
Reaching the impressive granite Abbey requires a steady uphill hike through the village followed by numerous stairs to arrive its base – and then more stairs to reach the terraced entrance to the church. You can avoid busy main street by walking the ramparts to the Abbey.
Entry tickets are required. It is easy to walk through on your own, and audio guides are available. If you wish to see the original small Romanesque church of Notre-Dame-Sous-Terre with its sanctuary dedicated to Archangel Michel, you need to book a lecture tour – best to book in advance during busy season.
From the base of the abbey, you will climb a large number of stairs to reach its entry façade with great panoramic views.
Looking north provides an impressive view of the English Channel. The bay is very shallow, and at the lowest tide, the water can be 25 miles from shore. When the tide comes in, they say it rushes in quickly.
South is a view of the coastline, the bridge, and the mouth of the Couesnon river. Mont Saint-Michel is on the very edge of Normandy, on the right side of the river is Brittany.
Fabulous gothic abbey complex of Mont Saint-Michel
Inside the Abbey
Venturing inside the Gothic Abbey we were amazed at how big a complex it is. You can’t get lost, as areas are cordoned off, allowing a flow in one direction.
There are multiple levels and many rooms: cloister, refectory, big pillars crypt, hosts room, other various rooms and stairways. We loved the lower levels - some areas are dimly lit, many with locked doors, adding much to the mysterious ambience of the place.
Remember it also used to be a prison. We were most surprised with the large tread-wheel crane. Prisoners used to walk inside this wheel (like a giant hamster) to haul supplies up on a platform outside the wall.
Hosts Room in the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel
We loved meandering through its dimly-lit lower crypts with grand pillars, stairways and locked doors.
Exiting the Abbey brings us out on the north side:
Proceeding down to a platform on the rampart has an original cannon left behind (date stamped 1264), along with a wonderful view of a small chapel (Chapelle Saint-Aubert) down by the flats.
The pathway back takes us alongside the massive exterior wall of the “Merveille”, 35 meters high with three levels in the inside – be sure to look up at this amazing feat of engineering completed in 1228!
Staying at Mont Saint-Michel
Most visitors stay on the mainland in La Caserne where it is more economical, easy parking at your hotel, and a short walk to a free shuttle to the island.
The shuttle to the island runs from 7:30 AM to 10 PM (Oct-Mar) to 11 PM (spring-fall) and to 1 AM (summer) – best to check its schedule to be sure. Note: the shuttle gets very busy in the morning (I read it can be a 1-hour line-up during peak season), and you won’t want to miss the last shuttle back.
Staying overnight on the island:
Is more expensive than the mainland, but for us it was worth it and very memorable.
Requires you to haul your luggage onto the shuttle, uphill on main street and up stairs to your hotel room.
Consider arriving later in the day to avoid morning shuttle line-ups and mid-day congestion on the island. (FYI, with a car, we drove to medieval Dinan early in the morning, and later in the afternoon drove to Mont Saint-Michel mainland parking lot).
If you have a car, request a parking code from your hotel in advance, and park in P3 lot on the mainland - you need a code to enter the lot. (I wasn’t given a code, but fortunately a security guard came by and helped once I showed him proof of reservation.)
Suggestion is to pack a smaller overnight bag with any valuables (take electronics) and leave the rest of your luggage in your car – out of sight.
Our island accommodation was La Vielle Auberge:
It has a wonderful restaurant near the top of main street, and the restaurant is where you check in and out.
We reserved our room online well in advance to get a Twin Room with Sea View.
The room is small and very basic, but the patio and view were absolutely fabulous!
Our room ended up being in a separate building just below the abbey – further uphill from the restaurant with lots of stairs (above the cemetery).
We stayed two nights and loved it, even though one night would suffice.
Patio views from our La Vielle Auberge hotel Twin Room with Sea View
Mont Saint-Michel is very magical after dark, amazingly quiet and almost deserted with very few people about. I loved it. Recommend each person have a flashlight – especially for stairways and paths that are not very well lit.
The abbey exterior is beautifully lit. Be sure to walk the ramparts, along the base of the dominating abbey, and don’t forget to venture out towards the bridge for a fabulous night-shot of the island.
Enchanting at Night
Enchanting night walk around Mont Saint-Michel
Watch the Videos
Watch Jim’s videos of Mont Saint-Michel (click images below),
and subscribe to Haswell Travelled YouTube channel - much appreciated!
How to Get Here
Car: It is probably easiest to reach Mont Saint-Michel by car. From Dinan it is a 44 min drive, from Saint-Malo 48 mins, Rennes 1 hour drive; Caen 1 hour 25 mins; Bayeux 1 hour 30 mins, Rouen 2 hours 43 min, Paris 3 hours 55 min. Mont Saint-Michel Car Park on mainland costs 15 Euros per day during high season (Apr 1 – Sep 30).
Transit: There is no train connection to Mont Saint-Michel. The nearest train connection is the town of Pontorson, and it has a Bus to Mont Saint-Michel (20 mins, about 5 per day) with drop off on the bridge (no shuttle needed). From Rennes, there is a direct train to Pontorson (48 min). Paris has a fast TGV to Rennes (1 hour 50 min), and also a train to Pontorson (3 hours 50 min).
Tour: A convenient option would be a coach tour daytrip to Mont Saint-Michel from Paris or Bayeux.
Reference
THE ARCHANGEL AND THE ORIGINS OF THE ABBEY, in ABBAYE DU MONT-SAINT-MICHEL website (with book ticket link): https://www.abbaye-mont-saint-michel.fr/en/Explore/The-archangel-and-the-origins-of-the-Abbey
Mont-Saint-Michel, Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mont-Saint-Michel
Order of Saint Michael, Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Order_of_Saint_Michael
Accessing the 'Passeur' shuttles, in Welcome to the Mont-Saint-Michel website: https://www.bienvenueaumontsaintmichel.com/en/accessing-the-site/using-the-passeur-shuttle_bus
Mont Saint-Michel section in: Rick Steves France 2016, by Rick Steves and Steve Smith, Avalon Travel Publishing
Exploring Farther Away
Bayeux is a historic gem, awaiting your exploration. It’s 950-year-old tapestry, depicting historic events, is a treasure like no other. Explore its large gothic cathedral & crypt, wonderful museum with lace displays, charming streets, Normandy invasion museum, and visit D-Day beaches to the north.
The medieval walled town of Dinan is a memorable sight with possibly the best-preserved half-timbered buildings on beautiful cobblestone streets you can find. And with a great panoramic view of its river-port, Dinan is a feast for the eyes.
The resort town of Saint-Malo on the northwest coast was once a haven for French pirates, with large fortifications protecting the bay and its old town. Ferries from the UK bring tourists to its beautiful city and beaches, with the option of an easy side-trip to medieval Dinan by river cruise. (No Haswell Travelled page on Saint-Malo yet)
The town of Fougères, in the French province of Britany, has a lovely old town surrounding one of Europe’s largest castles. We catch it on a beautiful morning, just as the sun is rising over the sleepy village. (No Haswell Travelled page on Fougères yet)