Dinan
Best half-timbered buildings on cobblestone streets you can find…
Dinan is truly a “WOW” – and I am not over estimating it. In north-western France, this medieval walled town is a memorable sight – with possibly the best-preserved half-timbered buildings on beautiful cobblestone streets you’ll can find. Add great panoramic views, and a charming river-port with cruise options, Dinan is a feast for the eyes.
Walking along Ru du Jezual in Dinan, France
Perfect Medieval Village
Dinan is a must-see in Brittany. I was anxious to see Dinan, and very glad we went out of our way to visit.
It is often suggested as a side-trip, to only spend part of a day in Dinan, and that is what we did. But for us, it was clearly not enough. A quick “see it and run” left me wishing we had stayed here a couple nights.
Dinan is exceptional - it is such a beautiful medieval village, and I now compare all other similar villages to it. It has a lot more charming half-timbered buildings than many other similar villages. Consider it among the top tier of this category, and expect to walk a lot and never put your camera down.
Consider old-town Dinan the perfect wind-down location to explore at a leisurely pace. Walk its cobble-stone streets during the day and after the sun sets when it is gently lit and restaurants are still active. Walk along the river, and maybe take a boat cruise side-trip to Saint-Malo. Maybe catch it on market day. Dinan will not be activity-filled as other destinations, but it will definitely be romantic and memorable.
If you don’t stay over night, you will still be very glad you visited during the day.
Fabulous half-timbered buildings in medieval Dinan, France
Self-Guided Walk
Main Sights along Self-Guided Walk in Dinan, France
Along this walk are all main sights in the heart of old-town Dinan. I suggest 2-hours minimum for a slow-pace to admire its architecture along the way. Longer if you plan to reach the river port and spend some time there – maybe have lunch or dinner before heading back up to town.
Start at the Tourist Information Center (Dinan-Cap Fréhel Tourisme - Bureau de Dinan) across from the south-west end of the Place Duguesclin parking lot. Gather maps if needed, get info on river cruise options if you wish.
The Place Duguesclin parking lot and it’s neighboring lot to the north, is convenient if you drive – but beware of market day.
Behind the Tourist Information Center is the castle and large walled gate.
Château de Dinan & Counter Gate
View the Château de Dinan just behind the Tourist Info Center. Reviews are modest (I didn’t see it myself due to limited time), and most agree spending adequate time in Dinan’s old town streets is more enjoyable. So, if you have lots of time, visit inside the castle and enjoy its panoramic views.
I recommend at least walking down the stairs and through the Counter Gate to view the massive walls from the other side. This is a very impressive picture moment.
Historical Appreciation: Shown on the Bayeux Tapestry, in 1065, Harold joined William the Conqueror as they battled the Duke of Brittany here in Dinan. The Duke surrendered and gave the town’s keys to William.
The ramparts here were later fortifications from the 1300’s. There are 3 kilometers of walls with 10 towers still standing with many sections still walkable. Our walk will take you to another section with a great view of the river port.
Château de Dinan, Brittany, France
Counter Gate along the south-west ramparts of Dinan
On Thursday mornings, the weekly Market takes up this parking lot and the adjacent lot beside it.
Historical Appreciation - At the center of the square is a statue of Bertrand du Guesclin on a horse:
He’s a 14th-century knight, native to Dinan, was a French military hero with key victories against the English during the 100 years war, and became Constable of France.
A locally famous story - in 1357, the Duke of Lancaster attacked Dinan and took Bertrand’s (Beo-tro’s) brother captive. So, he challenged Thomas of Canterbury to a dual, and after a long tough battle in front of a large crowd right here, Betrand was victorious.
Place Duguesclin - Market Square
Statue of Bertrand du Guesclin in Place Duguesclin
Market Day (Thursdays) at Place Duguesclin in Dinan, France
Tour de l'Horloge - Clock Tower
Walk east on Rue Sainte-Claire, then turn left to go north on Rue de l'Horloge – you will see the clock tower up ahead.
The clock tower date back to the 15th-century. Visit inside and climb its 156 steps for panoramic views of the city. Its big bell will be right behind you – beware that it rings about every 15 minutes.
Tour de l'Horloge Clock Tower in Dinan, France
View from top of Tour de l'Horloge Clock Tower in Dinan, France
Half-Timbered Buildings
Turning onto Rue de l'Apport, we find fascinating wood-timbered buildings.
Many of these half-timbered buildings date back to the 15th century, and these are Dinan’s oldest.
Notice the upper floors jut out over the sidewalk, supported by massive posts. Back then, property taxes were based on the square footage of the ground floor. So, they expanded outward on the upper floors
Fabulous half-timbered buildings in Dinan, France
Chez la Mere Pourcel (Mother Pourcel's house, images below):
Was built in 1458, and this is how it looked like before an unfortunate fire recently destroyed the building in 2019. This little guy had been holding it up for over 500 years.
Plans are in place to restore the building.
Chez la Mere Pourcel (Mother Pourcel's house) burnt down in 2019
Ru du Jezual – Cobblestone Lane
Turning west down Rue de la Lainerie, we find Ru du Jezual.
Nowhere can you find a more charming cobblestone lane than Ru du Jezual. Outside the walled town, passing under Jerzual Gate, its name changes to Rue du Petit Fort as it continues down to the river.
Ru du Jezual is a must-see in Dinan, with a slow stroll admiring architecture of the buildings, passing under ramparts, and anticipating the river port below.
Past Jerzual Gate, my wife and I only walked half-way down toward the river, as we were short of time and energy, and still needed to walk back through town.
If you have time, I recommend going all the way down to the river. You can ride a bus back into town if needed (see below).
Ru du Jezual - a most charming medieval cobble-stone lane in Dinan, France
Port of Dinan
Port of Dinan is about 1,000 years old, connected to the English Channel by the Rance river. Supplies and travellers to Dinan often arrived by boat from St Malo. English armies often arrived as well, and Port Dinan was destroyed many times over the centuries.
Admire the 15th century medieval bridge, enjoy the river views, and stop at a café or restaurant. The large arched bridge passing over the valley was built in 1850.
If you here for more than a day, consider a boat ride:
Compagnic Corsaire operates a relaxing 2.5-hour cruise between Dinan and Dinard & Saint-Malo on the coast. You even have the option of a quicker return by bus. (compagniecorsaire.com/en/destination/dinan-la-rance/)
Dina’Vig had small boats you can rent for your own self-cruise, accommodating 4-9 people (dinavig.com)
Enjoy a slow 1-hour cruise on the Jaman V (vedettejamaniv.com).
Port of Dinan on Rance river
Hugh Millward, CC BY-SA 2.0<https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0>, via Flickr
If you are unable to walk back up, there is a free Dinamo bus with two stops along the river to catch it back up to town:
“Port” stop - Beside the small bridge on the other side of the river (east side)
“Viaduc” stop - Along Rue du Port just before it passes underneath the large bridge.
Wave down the bus as it approaches to signal you want a ride.
To continue the walk, I recommend riding it to “Place Saint-Sauveur” stop in front of the Basilique Saint-Sauveur church, and walking to the back of the church, across the park, and on to St Catherine’s Tower.
If you are able, walk back up Rue du Petit Fort, the way you came and stop before going under at Jerzual Gate.
Port of Dinan with Dinamo Bus “Port” Stop in foreground
Google Map Street View Snapshot
Viaduc Bridge (1850) spanning Port of Dinan with Dinamo Bus “Viaduc” Stop in foreground.
Google Map Street View Snapshot
Jerzual Gate & Ramparts
In medieval times, the fabulous Jerzual Gate was the main entrance into the fortified walled city of Dinan. Imagine supplies from the river port brought up this lane into town by oxen cart, and travellers entering and leaving town.
Notice a set of stairs beside Jerzual Gate just outside the wall. Proceed up the stairs, follow the cobblestone pathway past a small sitting area, and turn right on Rue Michel.
Jerzual Gate from inside walled town, Dinan
Outside Jerzual Gate with stairs on left to reach Ramparts & St Catherine’s Tower
Google Map Street View Snapshot
Dinan ramparts with Jerzual Gate (foreground) and Governor Tower (background)
Walk the ramparts from top of Jerzual Gate to Governor Tower:
After turning right on Rue Michel, pass one building, and enter the iron gates onto Chemin de Ronde.
Following the cobblestone walkway leads over Jerzual Gate, and continue further to Governor Tower.
On Governor Tower, notice openings along its wall where cannons were placed for defence.
Walk back over Jerzual Gate, through the iron gates, and continue right Rue Michel a short distance.
From Rue Michel, turn left onto Rue du Rampart and walk to St Catherine’s Tower.
Walk through iron gate on Rue Michel to access rampart section with Jerzual Gate and Governor Tower
St Catherine’s Tower – Best View
The view from St Catherine’s Tower will leave you muttering “wow”. It is the best panoramic view in town and not to be missed.
The river and Port Dinan down below are stunning. And you will enjoy the terrific view of the large Viaduc bridge spanning across the valley.
Port of Dinan view from St Catherines Tower
The St Sauveur Basilica was originally built around 1123 by the Lord of Dinan upon his return from the first crusade.
It was extended and renovated in 1480, with a gothic architecture.
St Sauveur Basilica
St Sauveur Basilica, Dinan - view from park in the back, close to St Catherines Tower
Watch the Video
Watch Jim’s video tour of Dinan (click the image below),
and subscribe to Haswell Travelled YouTube channel - much appreciated!
How to Get Here
Car: Driving to Dinan from Saint-Malo is 35 mins, Mont Saint-Michel 55 mins, Rennes 40 mins, Bayeux 1 hour 57 min, Paris is 4 hours 20 min.
Transit: Direct Bus connection to Dinan from Saint-Malo is 45 mins. Train connections to Dinan are mostly via Dol-de-Bretagne: from Rennes 1 hour 12 min, Saint Malo 1 hour 20 mins.
Boat: River cruise to Dinan from Saint-Malo & Dinard is about 2 hours 30 min (one-way). Operated by Compagnic Corsaire they also provide the option of a quicker return by bus. (compagniecorsaire.com/en/destination/dinan-la-rance/)
Reference
Dinan section in: Rick Steves France 2016, by Rick Steves and Steve Smith, Avalon Travel Publishing
Compagnic Corsaire: Dinan and the Rance River Cruises (compagniecorsaire.com/en/destination/dinan-la-rance)
Dinan Agglomeration: Dinamo Bus (dinan-agglomeration.fr/Urbanisme-habitat-mobilite/Transports-et-mobilites/Transport-urbain-DINAMO!/Carte-des-circuits)
Exploring Farther Away
Bayeux is a historic gem, awaiting your exploration. It’s 950-year-old tapestry, depicting historic events, is a treasure like no other. Explore its large gothic cathedral & crypt, wonderful museum with lace displays, charming streets, Normandy invasion museum, and visit D-Day beaches to the north.
Mont St Michel is an unforgettable sight - rising out of the bay with its stunning Abbey reaching to the heavens. It’s the ultimate medieval hill-town with ramparts, a cobble-stone main street, a charming stone village, a most memorable gothic abbey complex, and a rich history.
The resort town of Saint-Malo on the northwest coast was once a haven for French pirates, with large fortifications protecting the bay and its old town. Ferries from the UK bring tourists to its beautiful city and beaches, with the option of an easy side-trip to medieval Dinan by river cruise. (No Haswell Travelled page on Saint-Malo yet)
The town of Fougères, in the French province of Britany, has a lovely old town surrounding one of Europe’s largest castles. We catch it on a beautiful morning, just as the sun is rising over the sleepy village. (No Haswell Travelled page on Fougères yet)
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Saint-Malo
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Mont Saint-Michel
Just off the north coast of France, Mont St Michel is an unforgettable sight - rising out of the bay with its stunning Abbey reaching to the heavens. It’s the ultimate medieval hill-town with ramparts, a cobble-stone main street, a charming stone village, and a rich history.
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Fourges
The medieval walled town of Dinan is a memorable sight with possibly the best-preserved half-timbered buildings on beautiful cobblestone streets you can find. And with a great panoramic view of its river-port, Dinan is a feast for the eyes.
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Bayeux
Bayeux is a historic gem, awaiting your exploration. It’s historic 950-year-old medieval tapestry, 230 feet long, is a treasure like no other. Explore its large gothic cathedral with a Romanesque crypt, wonderful museum with lace displays, and charming streets. It has its own Normandy invasion museum & cemetery, and a central proximity to visit D-Day beaches to the north.